I fell in love 18 years ago. I fell in love with India. The first time we met was with Karen Millen, I was the Head of Accessories for KM and Whistles. My father, ALLAH yerhama, was part Indian. My great grandmother was from Lucknow, he loved India dearly and would always talk about it to me and my brother and sisters, he spoke a little Hindi and he would forever talk about its people and the country. I remember the moment I got on that plane, I didn't really know what to expect. Karen Millen had worked with a buying office there and wanted me to go and meet the office and source new factories. I genuinely didn't know what I was doing.
I landed in New Delhi, an old airport that smelt of moth balls and humidity (this has now long gone) my suitcase in my hand, I can’t remember who met me, it was too long ago. Peep peep, toots and horns, it was chaos, loud, the roads full of old cars, tut tuts, smog, hazy, hot, scooters and families riding them, people walking in and around cars, I had to close my eyes most of the way, I was terrified and almost certain we would run someone or something over.
We arrived at this grand gate, security checked our car and the driver dropped me off at the doorstep of The Imperial hotel, New Delhi. The most amazing hotel I had ever seen. The smell of sweet lemon grass, serenity, calm, sparkling, I had stepped into the 1930’s, colonial India. It was a surreal experience, outside was utter chaos, inside utter peace. The most exquisite hotel in the world and still is, the service, the standards, the staff, the best.
MY INDIA
I threw my bags in my room, I was desperate to start my adventure. I asked the very elegant hotel concierge where I could find a traditional market, you see I love markets and old souks, you could say I am obsessed, bizarrely he said there was one actually around the corner from the hotel. Janpath market, that's where I fell in love. The hustle and bustle, wow, I had never seen anything quite like it, the colour, that's all I remember first was all that colour. Now after all these years, India has changed, unfortunately all most of these old markets have disappeared, and technology has taken its place. No one is really interested in the artisans or their crafts, these small businesses come from all over India to sell their wares, however, very few exist today. This is one of the few markets where I can find the real India. It is my vision to preserve this heritage and the artisanal skills, to continue supporting these small businesses and champion them to bring back the crafts.
I spent the entire day there, absolutely drenched in sweat, blazing heat, until late at night. I think I bought everything they had, from vintage sari’s to beaded bags, shawls and jewellery, bedspreads and cushions, everything, I loved it. The amazing thing is what happened from day to night. The light changed, that street glowed under the hazy lights of the small kiosks each one lighting up their little world, it was even more beautiful at night. I now had around 10 bags, it was getting silly, I could barely hold everything, when a little boy came to me and asked if I wanted help. I really could use a hand, he was no more than 10, little Dilip. My husband and I would see him every year we went and made sure that we supported his education, he was smart and ambitious and very proud, each time we gave him money he would save it and put it towards his school and support his parents. Dilip was a star in the making.
I didn't want it to end, it was late, and the market was starting to close for the night, I made my way back to the hotel, with all of my bags and looking worse for wear, with little Dilip chatting about his uncle’s business and what he wanted to do. I walked in the Imperial, rather embarrassed at the state that I was in, but loving every minute of the day I had spent. This was 18 years ago. The haggling, the chaos, it energizes me, I love the colours, the smells, the sounds, the people, the pride in what they do. They come towards me from all side, “madame, madame, see this, look madame look, see I have many colours, madame” it’s absolute madness, there I am in the middle of it, shouting, negotiating, loving every crazy minute. It’s where I come alive, whoever I am with, usually tends to disappear, it’s too crazy for them, too loud, too out of control, When I am in Delhi, I have to walk down this street, it recharges my batteries especially when I don't sleep the entire time I am there. The humility of these people and their love for what they do, I am humbled each time. This is my India.
Saty, who you see in the first video has been a lifetime friend, confidant and represents all that India is. He holds a dear place in our hearts, how much you will have to read in my book, which I hope to write one day, or that someone will write for me, most definitely my husband as I never will.
LUCKNOW
I am so proud that part of me is from Lucknow, famous for the history of its regal people, the arts, poetry and lifestyle and as famous for its embroideries. It is noble, like my father was. I now understood his passion for this country. His sense of pride, his constant love, I am blessed that I had the chance to see and be a part of this country. One day soon I will go to Lucknow, that is the promise I had made to him.